Pottery Decorating at Mori Toki-kan

The oldest known pottery in the world is Japanese, and the craftsmen of Japan have elevated the ceramic arts to a level seldom seen elsewhere. In Kyoto, especially, where the tea ceremony is still a daily presence and elegant cuisine demands a high level of presentation, an appreciation of pottery comes naturally to many people.

Two types of pottery from Kyoto are especially well known. Kiyomizu-yaki takes its name from Kiyomizu-dera Temple. The best kiyomizu-yaki is porcelain, with a characteristic crackled overglaze that was first developed by Nonomura Ninsei in the 17th century. The designs range from the very simple to elaborate floral patterns and other natural forms influenced by literature and scroll paintings. Though the kilns are no longer located near the temple because of air quality concerns, the pottery is still a popular souvenir and widely available in the shops lining Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka. Each summer the area hosts a bustling pottery festival, just before the Obon holiday.

The other characteristic Kyoto pottery is Raku-yaki, a type of tea ceremony pottery that arose as a result of the interaction between a 16th century potter named Chojiro and the great tea master Sen-No-Rikyu. The tea master wanted to develop a type of earthenware that fit with wabicha, his own approach to the ceremony that insisted on simple, natural forms and materials and downplayed the expression of the artisan’s personal temperament and aesthetic preferences. The firing process also introduces a large element of chance into the final appearance of the glaze, further separating the work from the influence of the potter. Raku-yaki is humble and unadorned to the point of appearing poorly made to an untrained eye, but is a superb expression of the potter’s art and has been imitated around the world. The prices for a good raku-yaki tea bowl can be almost unbelievably high, especially for a piece made by one of Chojiro’s descendants, who still maintain the family kiln in Kyoto.

Various shops around Kyoto offer visitors the chance to decorate their own pottery. This allows you a closer glimpse at one aspect of the ceramic making process, and can result in some wonderful souvenirs. However, keep in mind that because the piece must be fired after you’ve painted your design, most pieces will need to be mailed home to you a week or two later.

Matt Mangham

Mori Toki-kan: 254, 2 chome, Kiyomizu, Higashiyamaku, Kyoto

JR Kyoto station===(City bus No.206 or 100, 15 min.)====Gojozaka===(On foot, 8min.)===Mori Toki-kan

Open Hours:
9:00 - 17:00

Kyoto Tourism Council "Kyoto Travel Guide": http://www.kyoto.travel/